Living the dream

A highland existence interspersed with regular travels and running a charity in Nepal

Orion Face 5,5 Ben Nevis Ice Climb 19 Mar 2011

David Shortt and I left home at 4.45, and the N face car park at 0500, passing the CIC hut at about 0700, giving this view of Orion Face and also showing fat ice on Hadrian's Wall.

Chris in the gully below Zero en route to Orion Face

Chris led the first pitch into the shallow gully, with remnants of an old rope in the ice from a previous epic retreat from some party who must have abandoned it!

............................ and then Dave took the long second pitch which starts with a vertical wall, trending up and left. Fine ice climbing, quite run out.


Chris appearing at the top of the second pitch, entrance to the amphitheatre. Climber below gives the scale of the place.

After climbing the amphitheatre ands being held up for two hours below the slab rib by a party of three and other pairs, we got our turn to climb the crux. Chris headed out across a very sketchy and exposed traverse with close to no ice on it.


After the traverse, climbing steeply up a wall and bulges on patchy and brittle ice.

A very impressive pitch which is the key to the upper part of the route.


David working on up as we head towards the exit chimney.

As the light faded we approached the top and finished just as it got dark at 1900.

A very challenging route made the more so by lean conditions and losing three hours waiting for parties to move through constricted sections.

A 2 and a half hour descent followed and then wheat beers, showers, fish chowder and hot tub to ease the aching limbs before falling into bed.

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